Collection Statement

From the 1860s to 1880s it is estimated that ¼ cowboys of the American West were Black people. The Wild West represented freedom. In pictures, these Black cowboys are iconic, strong, determined, and proud. This was the time Black people were allowed to feel the pride of having a family.

I started calling myself a cowboy as a way to express my gender identity. I am someone strong, brave, genuine and Black.

A great place to find Black cowboys, and I use that term to mean everyone, cowgals, cowtheys, cowgays, etc, is a Black Rodeo. My mom took my sister and I to our first rodeo to celebrate Juneteenth. I had never seen so many well-dressed Black folks in a space. Such utilitarian items of clothing and accessories, like bandanas, chaps, cowboy hats and blue denim jeans, had evolved to be such cultural staples. All the ties, tassels, belts and buckles imply that the items are customizable, able to grow with the wearer. Those same decorations also imply ease of change in dress. Simply pull a string, or unbuckle a belt to begin a change in dress, gender expression, self identity.  I felt such a sense of community, and pride even though it was my first time. It felt like home.

The excitement in the crowd is so infectious when someone is able to do the seemingly impossible. Every item of clothing, every practice, every rodeo continues this beautiful tradition of Black excellence, self actualization, and relationship to nature. That’s how I want this collection to feel: exciting, humorous and daring, put simply to be a story well-told. And to make it more me, a collection to feel queer too. One of my favorite parts of being queer is building a beautiful, genuine life with my found family. 

This year’s theme is Flourish and that’s just what Black cowboys did and continue to do. This collection will showcase the energy, history, and legacy of Black cowboys, those who grew in a healthy, and vigorous way the seeds of American progress. They defied stereotypes and challenged the expectations of white America. They created an environment for themselves, their children, and future generations where it's okay to make mistakes, but never okay to give up; where found family is just as important as blood; and where it is important to be yourself because there is no one quite like you.

Left to Right: Designer Mo Green and Models Chris Laventure, Sara de Los Santos, En Soffer, Nat Scott, and Asha Parks

Documentation: Mo Green, Mathilde Mujanayi, and MICA ABFS 29 Flourish Team: Miracle Kendall, David Neri, and Tatyana Twyman